There’s something hypnotic about a completely black dish. The black rice with squid ink arrives in a Staub casserole — that enameled cast iron that distributes heat with discipline and retains temperature as if it took pride in doing so. The rice is dark to the edge, moist, with the starch from cooking creating that texture that clings to the palate in a pleasurable way.
Over the rice, the grilled polvo à la plancha: tentacles with perfect grill marks, those golden stripes that indicate the right temperature and correct timing. The polvo is succulent — not rubbery, not falling apart, but at that exact point of gentle resistance that responds to the bite with pleasure. The succulence comes from prior cooking (steam, or sous-vide, or traditional tenderizing) before the final grilling that adds color and smoke.
The white allioli quenelles are arranged geometrically in the corners — not thrown, not scattered, but positioned with intention. Snow pea petals appear as vivid green against the absolute black of the rice.
The contrast between the black of the rice and the white of the allioli is an aesthetic decision that is also a flavor decision: the acid from the garlic mayonnaise breaks the richness of the squid ink.
Oscar Bosch arrived in Brazil bringing in his luggage Valencian cuisine with all its seriousness regarding rice. In Valencia, rice is not a side dish — it’s the absolute protagonist, and the way you cook it defines who you are in the kitchen. Tanit, located in São Paulo, carries this conviction without condescending adaptations to local taste.
Oscar Bosch understands rice with squid ink as the mother dish of Valencian cuisine — not as chromatic curiosity, not as visual trick. The ink is umami. It’s depth. It’s the flavor of the sea concentrated in each grain.
It’s worth noting what’s not on the plate: there’s no lemon squeezed on top, no extra olive oil at the finish, no chopped herbs decorating. The dish arrived as it was conceived. This restraint is a decision — and in serious Spanish cuisine, it’s a sign of respect for the product. You can ask for lemon, of course. But try it first without.
Tanit is located in Pinheiros, in one of São Paulo’s regions with the highest density of good restaurants per square meter. This creates a silent competition that raises the general level — and Tanit responds to this competition with the only currency that matters: consistency. The black rice you eat today is the same as six months ago and will be the same a year from now.
São Paulo, a city without sea, finds the coast in this Staub casserole.
Technical Details
- Location: Tanit, São Paulo, SP
- Category: Fine Dining / Spanish
- Average Price: R$ 150–250 per person
- Rating: ⭐ (5/5) — black rice with real ink, grilled polvo with precision, memorable presentation